How To Make Necklaces of Flat Coils

Make necklaces coiled units using 18 gauge wire.

Cut twenty wire lengths 6 inches.

Make twenty flat coils, winding the wire five times to make necklaces individual units. Leave 3/8 inch wire end on each unit (Figure A)

Let 1/2 inch of the outside wire rest on the back of the coil.  Bend flat against the coil (Figure B)

Cut the wire 3/8 inch from the edge of the coil to the end of the wire.  Make a 1/8 inch ring on the other wire end (Figure C)

Join the coiled units with 1/4 inch rings to make the chain (Figure D)

Make Necklaces catch

Cut a wire length 3 inches.

Bend in the center and bring the ends together.

Make a hook on the looped end and a ring on each wire end. (Firgure E)

Link to one end of the chain.

To fasten, hook the catch to the last ring on the other end of the chain.

Check out our other posts for more information on how to make necklaces.

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One can make rings out of various materials. Here are the steps to make rings out of flat coils:

Use 18 gauge silver wire to make rings shank

Measure the finger with ring sizes. The ring shown is a 5 1/2 ring size.

Cut three lengths of wire 2 1/2 inches long.

Solder the wires together on the ends 1/4 inch to hold them even.

Solder the three lengths together.

File and smooth with emery cloth.

To make rings shape – bend around a ring mandrel on size #6 (a half size larger than the finished ring) with the solder on the inside of the ring.

Saw the wires where they overlap.

Join the ends and solder together.

To make rings ornament

Cut a length of wire 8 inches long and another length 6 inches long.

Make flat coils on the ends of A and B with holding ends in the jig 1/4 inch.

Wind the coils toward each other and the holding ends on the same side.

Cut the holding ends.

Loop the center of A and B on a 1/16 inch mandrel, with the coils on the outside.

Unit A should measure 1 inch by 1 inch, and B 3/4 inch by 3/4 inch.

Turn the A loop 3/8 inch, and the B loop 1/4 inch.

Insert B through A, press together between square nose pliers so they lie flat.

Solder together.

Hook AB over the joint of the shank and solder together.

Turn the looped end toward the coils.

File the inside smooth and finish with emery to make ring smooth.

Click Link to Learn How to Sell Your Jewelry Like Crazy at Shows, Fairs, and Festivals and Stay Tuned for More Ways to Make Rings.

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Make bracelets of twisted wire with domes.  This is a fun way to make bracelets that are very decorative and interesting.

First make bracelets wires

Using 14 gauge copper wire cut three 15 inch lengths of wire.

Hold 3 inches of the ends in the jaws of the table vise. Clamp 3 inches of the other loose ends in the jaws of the hand vise. Hold taut and give the hand vise twenty-four full turns.

Make a flat wire coil on each wire end. Cut the 1/4 inch holding end even with the coil. Raise the center of the coil on a lead block with a dapping die punch and tin the raised center.

Next make bracelets domes

Using 24 gauge silver sheet cut and dome six 3/8 inch disks.

File the base of the domes even.

Tin the inside of the domes.

Flux the tinned surface of the domes and coils.

Lay one of the coil ends on the screen and hot plate.

Place a dome on each coil and solder together.

Repeat the above process on the other end.

Hold the head of a wooden mallet in the jaws of the table vise.

Bend the twisted wire length around the mallet to make bracelets form.

Shape to fit the arm. Curve one end with round nose pliers. 

Bend the other end. The coils must lie flat on the arm.

Next make bracelets silver wrap

Using 22 gauge silver wire cut three 15 inch lengths.

Wind a wire in the first groove of the twist. Leave one inch of the wire free on each end.

Coil the silver wire in every third groove between the copper wires.

Pull the wire tight during the coiling process. Repeat the above with the other wire lengths.
 
Coil the loose ends.

Solder the coils on the back under the domes.

Smooth any rough surfaces with a file and emery cloth.

Rub the domes with fine pumice powder to remove scratches.

Polish with metal polish. Finish with chamois skin.

Lacquer the twisted wire to make bracelets shine.

Check our other posts to find fun ways to make bracelets

The Make Jewelry Blog is a guide for those who wish to make jewelry of silver and other metals. It will introduce them to the jewelry making skills and processes of an ancient and honorable craft which has unlimited possibilities.

An interesting feature of this type of craft work is that from the beginning, with a few essential tools, materials, and simple working drawings, one can learn to really make jewelry that is beautiful and wearable. As in any craft, practice is necessary in order to acquire the workmanship which will give good results. To this end the processes used to make jewelry should be repeated many times.

If you peruse through the Make Jewelry Blog you will find a number of ideas which can be combined in various ways to make new designs. The transition from these jewelry projects to independent planning can be accomplished by experimenting with units of metal which vary in size, shape and texture until a good workable design has been arranged. Then the sequence of the processes can be determined and the working plan made. In this way, the beginner will build up knowledge of the craft which will inspire him or her to make finer jewelry and do more finished work.

All good jewelry designers, consciously or unconsciously, are influenced by the design of the past and by the art forms and practices of their contemporaries. The designer not only studies the objects made of the material in which he works, but also designs made in other mediums to make jewelry designs that are unique and unusual.

Natural forms also give him inspiration. As the fashion in dress changes through the years, so will the styles in jewelry change, but a beautifully designed and well constructed piece of jewelry is always good. It may be laid aside for a time in favor of a newer piece, but will be treasured and worn again, as we might wear our grandmother’s charms and lockets with pleasure and pride.

Visit some of the other posts in the Make Jewelry blog to learn how to make jewelry.

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South China native Jen Lisa remembers being fascinated by metal, jewels and shiny things from a very young age.

“I’ve always been dazzled by jewelry and shiny things,” said Lisa. “I would clean my grandmother’s diamonds. We had a sailboat growing up, and I remember being eight years old and polishing the brass cleats on the boat until they got their luster back. I thought it was so pretty.”

Now the creative force behind jewelry line Quench Metalworks, Lisa has come full circle in her career. She started out working in a jewelry shop as a teenager, moved on to high-end galleries in Providence, R.I. and now has her own line of fine jewelry.

Quench, seen in shops and at shows around the state, combines her love of metal work with a recycled edge, using antique buttons and porcelain to create a look that’s part old-fashioned, part contemporary. It’s for sale at shops around the state, including Spruce & Gussy in Bar Harbor, Roots & Tendrils in Belfast and the Center for Maine Contemporary Craft in Gardiner, as well as online at www.quenchmetalworks.etsy.com.

Lisa, 36, named her line Quench because that’s what you do to hot metal, once you’re done with it: you quickly submerge it in water to cool and harden it. Her studio is set in a room upstairs in the house she shares with her husband and daughter, and is full of well-organized cabinets stuffed with buttons, semi-precious stones, chains and bits of metal crafted into creative shapes.

Lisa began learning the art of jewelry making at the age of 16, while still a student at Waterville High School. She found a job working at Jeffrey’s Fine Jewelers in Waterville, now a Day’s Jewelers. For the next two years, Lisa learned some of the basics — not officially an apprentice, but something akin to it.

“I learned how to string pearls with silk thread the old-fashioned way. I learned the real way to repair a necklace,” she said. “And eventually, I learned basic metal smithing and how to do hot work. It was the best job someone like me could have had in high school.”

A teacher encouraged her to apply to Rhode Island School of Design, where she was accepted and attended in the late 1990s.

“I knew right off the bat I wanted to study jewelry design and metal smithing, though I was really into blowing glass, as well,” she said.

While there, she studied under renowned German jewelry designer Martina Windels, who operated a high-end gallery in Providence, at which Lisa worked for several years after she graduated.

She also worked with acclaimed designer Sam Shaw, who now runs a fine jewelry store in Northeast Harbor. By the time she graduated, she had gone from the most basic of skills to working with nickel silver, a notoriously difficult metal to use.

Lisa returned to Maine in 2005 having burned out trying to make a living making jewelry and looking for a more stable life. She went to the University of Southern Maine and earned a teaching degree, married her husband, John, and taught art in the Waterville area for three years. Eventually, she stopped teaching and devoted herself to her now 5-year-old daughter, Annabelle. After a year and a half of being a stay at home mom, however, the creative bug just wouldn’t stop biting.

“I needed to create again,” she said. “It was driving me crazy not to.”

That’s where Quench Metalworks began. Early on in 2008, Lisa was making felt playthings for Annabelle and wanted some embellishments for them. She found some old buttons stashed away by older family members, and was struck by how lustrous and beautiful the decades-old mother-of-pearl buttons were.

“That proverbial light bulb lit up in my head,” said Lisa. “What if I set this in a ring? Or this in a brooch? I decided to get my studio in working order again. I just knew that these buttons would translate into jewelry focals wonderfully.”

Lisa’s first piece was a simple pair of drop earrings with plain mother of pearl buttons. Her next piece was a rectangle pendant that framed two buttons. Both sold to friends. She kept making more, and in September 2008 opened her online Etsy shop. She’s since displayed her work at craft fairs and trunk shows all over the state, including a display at the Bangor Symphony Orchestra’s season-closing concert last May, which featured a small marketplace showcasing recycled goods.

The buttons Lisa works with come from a variety of sources. Some are those buttons she salvaged from her family, others she finds in vintage shops. Some are buttons that her growing fan base has given to her, especially older women with a surplus of sewing accessories at their fingertips.

“I’ve had people find my stuff online, or I’ll be at a show, and they’ll say, ‘I remember those buttons from a long time ago,’” Lisa said. “They’ll have huge collections of leftover buttons from years and years ago. People didn’t throw things away back then. They would save old buttons. We tend to throw things away nowadays. Customers bring my buttons now. I’ve got a seemingly never-ending supply.”

Quench appeals to a broad array of people, which is one of the reasons Lisa has found success is making and marketing her wearable art. It’s different enough to be hip, but it’s vintage, classic look makes it timeless.

“I really love that everyone from a 75-year-old woman in Texas to a young New York hipster likes my stuff,” she said. “It’s very contemporary, but it also is a throwback to another time. I think that’s why people like it.”

Source: Bangor Daily News (Bangor, Maine)) By Emily Burnham, Bangor Daily News, Maine

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16 gauge shellacked copper wire, three 32 inch lengths

Remove all kinks.

Clamp 4 inches of the three ends in the jaws of the table vise.

Hold 4 inches of the other ends in the jaws of the hand vise.

Pull the wires so they are taut and even.

Give the hand vise sixty full turns to twist the wire.

Make six flat coils on the wire ends.

ends of the scarf holder are hooked together.

A scarf is folded around the wire twist at the back and brought to the front.

Knot the ends together to hold the wire loops in place.

The same process is used in making the scarf holder and bracelet, the difference being the length of the wires, the number of turns and the final shaping

Bracelet of twisted and coiled wire

The bracelet is constructed in the same way as the scarf holder. The wires may be cut longer or shorter depending upon the number of times the wire coils around the arm.

Twist and coil the wire. Follow the instructions of the scarf holder.

Form the bracelet around the head of a wooden mallet.

Spread and taper slightly to fit the arm.

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Make twenty flat coils, winding the wire five times to make the unit.  

Leave  3/8  inch wire end on each unit A.

Let 1/2 inch of the outside wire rest on the back of the coil. 

Bend flat against the coil B.

Cut the wire 3/8 inch from the edge of the coil to the end of the wire.

Make a 1/8 inch ring on the other wire end C.

Join the coiled units with 1/4 inch rings to make the chain D.

The catch

Cut a wire length 3 inches.

Bend in the center and bring the ends together.

Make a hook on the looped end and a ring on each wire end.

Link to one end of the chain. 

To fasten, hook the catch to the last ring on the other end of the chain.

Make Jewelry

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The design was suggested by the marking on the back of the stone, the eye of a fish. Its form and translucent quality lent itself to piercing a fish design. The framework of metal holds the stone. Beads, the same texture and color of the stone, are held together with a silver unit suggesting a sea horse. The mottled edge of orange and brown of the stone is repeated in the eye and again in the beads. The luster of the silver gives good color and brilliance to the finished piece. Other translucent stones suitable for jewelry are often found which will suggest many designs.

THE PENDANT
 
Draw the outline of the stone on a sheet of paper and add prongs to the outline at the top, bottom and sides.

Place the fish design within the outline so the marking on the stone will be in position for the eye of the fish. The pierced design must be in the frame which holds the base of the stone.

22 gauge silver sheet

Transfer the pattern to the silver.

Drill a hole in the section to be pierced.

Pierce the design, and saw the outline of the pattern.

File all edges even. Finish with emery cloth.

Polish with tripoli and a felt buff.

Place the stone in position on the metal.

Turn the metal which extends beyond the edge of the stone with round nose pliers to hold the stone firmly.

Round any sharp corners with a file.

Remove scratches and polish with a burnisher.

THE CHAIN

Units for the chain

18 gauge silver wire

Cut a wire length 1 1/2 inches A.

Make a ring on each end of the wire.

Loop the wire in the center, and flatten to hold the hook of the pendant.

Bring the rings almost together.

Cut ten lengths of wire 1 1/2 inches.

Coil the wire with round nose pliers B.

Cut twenty-eight lengths of wire 3/4 inch C.

Make a ring on one end of each wire.

Assembling the chain

Hook one ring of A into a coiled end of B.

Hook C into the other B coil.

Insert the stem of C through the hole in the bead, and a B coil.

Turn the stem of C to form a ring.   

The bead should be held tight by the C rings.

Continue joining the wire units and beads until half of the chain has been finished. Repeat the above to complete the chain.

Hook the pendant in A.

Make Jewelry

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It has been estimated that there are approximately 10,000 three-leaf clovers for every four-leaf clover; however, this probability has not deterred collectors who have reached records as high as 160,000 four-leaf clovers. Here is a great way to make your own four leaf clover and make your own luck along with it.

24 gauge copper sheet 2 inches square

Tin one side.

Trace the design on the untinned side of the sheet.

Saw to pattern.

22 gauge brass 2 inches square

Tin one side.

Flux the tinned surface of both metals.

Hold the metals together with cotter pins.

Place on a screen and hot plate until the solder melts.

When cool wash with pumice powder and a brush.

Saw the brass sheet even with the copper design.

File and emery the edges smooth and even, then polish with a burnisher.

By following the same procedure other and more personal charms can be made

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18 gauge wire 9 1/2 inches

Make a 1/2 inch coil on each end of the wire.

Make a loop in the center.  

Turn the loop down to form a hook.

See the image below.

Make Jewelry

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