Spiral blades provide cutting around the entire periphery of the blade due to a helical shape. This design allows work to be fed in straight moves. The work does not have to be turned to make cuts, so sharp inside corners can be created. This comes in really handing when you are making jewelry. Excellent for wood, plastic, ferrous metals, nonferrous metals, bone, wax, and more. .041″ diameter, end N/A, 28 teeth per inch

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In sheet size 9″ x 13 3/4″ (22 x 34 cm). Grit 4/0 is the finest and 3 is the coarsest. 800 mesh.

Jewelers have relied on emery paper as an abrasive because of emery’s unique characteristic of constant uniform grain structure. Emery paper will give a reliable, consistent finish with a minimum of microscopic high spots that can cause deeper scratches than anticipated. Norton™ American made emery paper range from a fine 8/0 to a coarse #3

Norton Emery Paper Sheets designed for dry polishing or lapping of metal surfaces where heavy stock removal is not a concern. Light weight paper backing (A621).   Sale on 9″ x 13-3/4″ sized Emery Paper sheets.  Once our stock is depleted of this size, stocked size will be 9″ x 11″ sheets.  See chart below on grits that have switched sizes.

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Suitable for pickling and acid solutions. 8 1/2″ (216 mm) length.

Copper tongs are used to hold the cleaning material during the cleaning process. Safety goggles and heatproof gloves are essential to safety and should be used any time you are firing the kiln.  Other tools that are very helpful with enameling include a firing fork, a sifter, scrolling tool, firing racks and trivets, copper tongs and, of course, safety goggles and heavy heatproof gloves. The firing fork is used to remove pieces from the firing chamber. It has long tines that slip beneath the hot copper base. A sifter is useful to remove any incidental oversized chips from the powdered glaze. A scrolling tool is used to swirl the liquid glass while the piece is still under the heating element. It consists of a long rod with an angled, sharpened tip that easily reaches into the heat of the chamber. Firing racks and trivets hold/elevate the piece while it is under the element. This allows heat to circulate under the form and evenly heat the copper and glass. They also make possible the removal of the finished piece at the perfect moment, because they allow the firing fork to slip under the work.

See: http://www.arttalk.com/archives/vol-12/artv1205-4.htm

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Make perfect box joints with speed and ease by using our precision carbide cutters. Strong, beautiful box joints are ideal for jewelry box drawers, humidors and a variety of small projects. The long 1/2″ arbor holds 5 (5/32″) three-wing, carbide-tipped slot cutters, 4 spacers and a ball bearing guide. Use in router table only. The bearing is designed for 1/2″ depth of cut, but make shallower cuts by adjusting your router fence. Use stock up to 1/2″ thick.

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Provide a fast, easy, economical way to reach detailed, hard-to-reach areas. Plastic stick, tapered at the end, holds a replaceable 1/4″ (6 mm) wide sanding belt. The aluminum oxide belt is held in place by a patented spring-loaded mechanism that allows the belt to be rotated 360 degrees. Rotating the belt exposes a new sanding surface and allows the entire belt to be used.

Q: Some vendors sell jump rings by the outside dimension (OD) and some sell by the inside dimension (ID). If I’ve bought rings by the OD but need an ID measurement, what’s the easiest way to measure?

A: The most precise way to measure the inside of a jump ring is with digital calipers. It’s not a tool everyone has lying around, I know! But I find them indispensable, not only for measuring jump rings but for the precise measuring of bead sizes. They’re not terribly expensive. Brass calipers will work, too, I just find the digital ones easier to use.

Q: I ran across the term “aspect ratio” (AR) recently when reading about jump rings for chain maille. What does it mean?

A: According to Blue Buddha, “Aspect ratio is a number that represents the relationship between the wire gauge and the inner diameter of a particular size jump ring. The exact formula to calculate aspect ratio is the inner diameter divided by wire diameter (WD), or in shorthand: AR = ID ÷ WD. Before using the formula, make sure to convert the wire gauge to millimeters or inches (to match the unit system used for the ring’s ID).”
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These handy holding devices are available with either round or horseshoe bases. Each are heavy, non- tipping bases equipped with ball joint attachments which can position work at any angle. Cross-locking tweezers and various types of clamps will fit on these bases. Handy for positioning pieces to be joined by solder or adhesive, freeing both hands.

Here is an example of possible uses:

Soldering is an easy way to adhere metal to metal. A hand-held soldering iron heats up and is touched to the two pieces of metal. The iron melts a soft metal, referred to as solder, connecting each piece. If the solder will not adhere to the metal, a flux can be used to aid in bonding. An ideal soldering iron for jewelry-making purposes should be slender and pointed at the tip.  This allows for controlled and precise application of solder.

Turn on the soldering iron and allow it to heat up, While the iron is heating, affix the two items to be joined on the third hand. Move the items until they touch each other at the place where you wish to solder them. Apply flux to each piece at the place you wish to join them with a cotton swab. Wipe the hot iron on the wet sponge to remove any solder residue. Touch the iron to the spot to be joined and immediately touch the solder to the iron. When a bead of solder has melted, remove the spool of solder. Use the iron to move the bead of solder until it coats each piece to be joined. Wipe the joined pieces with the sponge to remove excess flux. Allow to cool before removing from third hand.

More tips on soldering

Using hard silver solder for this sweat soldering operation is going to be really tough. If you can use medium solder, using less heat, you will have a far easier time of it.  Another suggestion would be to get both pieces perfectly flat, before you melt the medium solder chips on the back side of the smaller piece. ( make sure it doesn’t warp from excessive heat!) As long as both remain flat (except for the melted pieces of solder) you should be able to put both pieces together, flux, and heat with a broad flame, heating as evenly as possible. I’d recommend a sturdy, flat screen, and heating from below. I try not to use any cross-locking tweezers, etc., as they can create more of a problem.

I have a few pieces of 1/4 in. wide square steel rod, cut into 3 in. lengths. If I have a problem holding down a large flat project like this one, I’ll weight the pieces down with a piece or 2 of the square steel rod. They don’t absorb much heat, and serve to hold pieces down gently when  soldering.

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A collet is a sleeve with a (normally) cylindrical inner surface and a conical outer surface. The collet can be squeezed against a matching taper such that its inner surface contracts to a slightly smaller diameter, squeezing the tool or workpiece whose secure holding is desired. Most often this is achieved with a spring collet, made of spring steel, with one or more kerf cuts along its length to allow it to expand and contract. An alternative collet design is one that has several tapered steel blocks (essentially tapered gauge blocks) held in circular position (like the points of a star, or indeed the jaws of a jawed chuck) by a flexible binding medium (typically synthetic or natural rubber). The Jacobs Rubber-Flex brand is a name that most machinists would recognize for this type of collet chuck system. Regardless of the collet design, the operating principle is the same: squeeze the collet against the tool or workpiece to be held, resulting in high static friction. Under correct conditions, it holds quite securely.

Each collet generally has only a narrow clamping range, which means that a large number of collets are required to hold a given range of materials in the chuck, unlike with many other types of chuck that will generally cover a wide range of sizes. This gives collet chucks the disadvantage of relatively high capital cost.

The collet’s advantage over other chucks is that it manages to combine all of the following traits into one chuck, and this combination is highly valuable in an environment of repetitive part production:

1. Speed of chucking (unclamp one part, switch to a new part, reclamp)
2. Self-centering
3. Strong clamping force
4. Resistance against being jarred loose (untightened)
5. Centering at a high level of precision (runout is less than 0.005 in (0.13 mm) TIR)

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For handling miniature and micro-miniature parts. With tapered shanks, not as thick as pattern No. OO, flat edges and points that have ben honed and are very sharp. Overall length 4-1/2″ (114 mm).

How to attach split rings using split ring pliers or tweezers

Using split rings to securely attach your sterling silver charms to your charm bracelet or necklace is a snap when you use split ring pliers or tweezers. With the right tools you will not damage your fingernails trying to open the rings and you will not have to watch the little buggers go flying across the room as they snap shut and try to escape.

Step One:
You will need a split ring, split ring pliers or tweezers, and the item you will attach to the split ring. Remove any jump ring from your charm so the split ring will be the only link between the charm and the bracelet.

Step Two:
Open the pliers and slide the split ring on the longer arm of the tool. As you close the tool, make sure the pointed (curved) arm comes down between the coils of the split ring to separate them. Once you have a grip on the split ring, you can slide it around toward the open end so you can add your charm or bracelet to the ring.

Step Three:
Slide the object that you are attaching to the split ring onto the open end. Hold the object in your fingers and use flat nose pliers or fingertips to slide the split ring around to the other side, until the object and ring dangle freely. (Just like putting a key on a keyring)

Step Four:
Repeat steps 2 and 3 to attach the charm to your bracelet or chain. Open the other side of the split ring and repeat the process to attach the item to a charm bracelet. Opening each side of the split ring will help keep it from stretching out and losing its shape.

Are split ring pliers better than tweezers

Pliers and tweezers both work exactly the same. Tweezers are a low cost alternative to pliers but they truly work equally as well. The main difference is the grip. With pliers you grip the handles using your entire hand (in a “C” shape if you are left-handed and a backwards “C” shape if you are right handed). When using tweezers you use the thumb and index finger to press the tip of the tweezer together and open the split ring.

Choosing the right size sterling silver split ring for your bracelet

5mm Split Rings:

5mm sterling split rings are the softest and most likely to lose their shape if attached to a bracelet with large links. This size ring is best for the smallest bracelet links and small charms.

6mm Split rings:

6mm is the most common size. Most charms come with either a 6mm jump ring or a split ring. For medium weight charm bracelets 6mm rings will work well.

7mm & 7.3mm:

7mm and 7.3mm rings are best for charm bracelets with think chain links. 7mm and 7.3mm rings usually snap back to shape better the smaller sizes but if used on a small link bracelet the distance from the bracelet to the charm can appear too big. We recommend these split rings for thick, heavy chain links.
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The most advanced diagonal cutting nippers available, unsurpassed in cutting capacity. Manufactured with screw-type precision lap joint for optimum strength, exact movement and maximum accessibility. Dual spring-loaded handles and oval jaw design. Made in Sweden. Overall length 4-5/16″. Length of jaws 3/8″

You can use the diagonal cutting nippers in many ways in your jewelry making processes.  It has a large cutting capacity so you can cut many sizes of many different materials.  These nippers were manufactured using the screw style lap joint.  This gives these nippers extra strength and very precise motion even when you are cutting at a maximum capacity.  The handles of these nippers are dual spring loaded and the jaw design is an oval design.  Again, these will be a great help in any of your jewelry making uses.  These nippers are made in Sweden,  The overall length of the nippers is 4 and 5/16 inches.  The length of the nipper jaws are 3/8 of an inch.  These are the type of nippers you will definitely want to add to your jewelry making tool kit.

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Has slots for seven pliers, shelf for miscellaneous small tools and a handy storage drawer. Varnished natural finish. Made of particle board. Measures 6″ x 5″ x 7 1/2″ (152 x 127 x 191 mm).

Round section
The less said about these the better. They are usually made from brass and are compressed with a point to cup type crimp tool. They don’t make a strong join but are just about adequate for some light tackle applications. If you’re desperate and can’t tie a knot use these.

Oval section
This style is in almost universal use on commercial longline vessels, and they catch some pretty big fish using them. They are available in various brass and copper alloys and in aluminium and you will need a cup to cup type crimp tool to compress them. These are an excellent choice for serious anglers. When appropriately sized for the leader in use and compressed with the correct tool they create a very strong and reliable connection. Bear in mind though that in saltwater two dissimilar metals can set up a corrosive reaction and if aluminium sleeves are used to join steel cable they will corrode away in a remarkably short period of time, just like the sacrificial anodes used on sea going boats.

For this reason aluminium sleeves should only be used for joining monofilament, whilst brass or copper sleeves can be used for joining either monofilament or cable.

Double barrel
Double barrel sleeves are my favourite. They make a strong neat join and there is no danger of the cable or monofilament crossing over itself inside the sleeve.

They are also in common use on longline boats, but due to being very slightly more costly than oval sleeves they are less popular. Longliners use an awful lot of sleeves so every cent saved is important, but that’s not really such an issue for charter captains or private anglers who use far fewer.

Like oval sleeves, double barrel sleeves are available in both brass or copper and in aluminium. They should also only be compressed with a cup to cup style crimping tool.

The same comments regarding corrosion apply as for oval sleeves. It’s important so I’ll say it again. Use aluminium sleeves for monofilament only, use brass or copper sleeves for either monofilament or steel cable.

Double barrel sleeves are available in both standard and heavy-duty models. The standard sleeves are only available in brass or copper, whilst the heavy-duty sleeves are available in brass, copper and aluminium. These heavy-duty sleeves are for use with heavier leaders and larger crimping tools and are often generically referred to as ‘Nicopress’ sleeves.

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