Often a design calls for a twist of given length, sometimes a tight or loose twist. To determine the length to cut the wire is important. The gauge of the wire as well as the number of twists the wire is given will determine the length of the finished piece.
When round wire is used, two or more lengths are necessary for the twist. A rope-like effect may be obtained by twisting a single length of flat or square wire. All wire should be annealed.

Twisting wire 18 gauge or lighter

Measure the amount needed for the twist. Loop the wire length in the center, and insert the two loose ends through the hole in the spool. Hold the ends in the jaws of a table vise. Insert a small steel rod through the loop of wire, and pull the wire taut. Hold the spool firmly against the rod. Turn the rod to twist the wire.

Twisting wire 16 gauge or heavier

Hold the looped end of the wire in the jaws of the hand vise. Clamp the loose end in the jaws of the table vise. Turn the hand vise to twist the wire.

To determine the length

In cutting the wire for a definite length of finished twist, the following examples have been given of two round wires of different gauges and lengths.

18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 11 1/8, inches
18 gauge, 26 inches, twisted 75 times, gives 9 5/8 inches
18 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 5 1/4 inches
20 gauge, 14 inches, twisted 50 times, gives 4.7/8^ inches

Twisting fine wire

 

Twisting heavier wire. The wire is annealed. It is held taut while being twisted but will break if it is twisted too tightly.

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A flat coiled unit is usually made of round wire. It may be the foundation of an article and is often used for decoration, either as a single unit or several combined to make a pattern.

The wire ends of the unit may be turned under at right angles to form staples so that it can be used as a decorative stud on leather or fabric. The unit may hang as a pendant or several may be linked together to form a chain.

The jig
14 gauge or heavier metal sheet. Saw a 1 inch disk or larger. Drill a hole in the center of the disk the size of the mandrel which determines the size hole in the center of the coil. File a notch in the edge of the hole the size of the wire to be used for the coil.

Coiling wire 18 gauge or lighter

Cut a wire length, and insert the end and mandrel 1/2 inch through the hole in the disk, and the wire in the notch. Bend the annealed wire around the mandrel, and hold both the wire and the mandrel in the jaws of the hand vise.  Wind the wire to make the coil by turning the vise. Keep the coil flat with the thumb of the left hand while coiling.   Each ring must touch the ring just made and lie flat on the disk. Place the hand vise in the jaws of the table vise.   Insert the end of the mandrel in the hole of the setting tool. Tap the end of the setting tool to flatten the coil.   Repeat this operation often to keep the coil flat.

Coiling wire 16 gauge or heavier

Insert the wire end and mandrel through the hole in the disk.   Hold as described above. Place a hand vise in the jaws of the table vise. Hold the loose end of the wire in the right hand, and wind on the disk.

The setting tool

Saw a short length of hard wood rod (a broom handle). File one end smooth and flat and finish with sandpaper. Drill a hole in the center larger in diameter than the man¬drel and deeper than the length of the mandrel.

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Wire may form the foundation of a piece of jewelry, or it may be applied as a decoration. It is often twisted to add lightness to a design, and can easily be formed into coils or line units of decoration for flat or curved surfaces. Twists and coils of wire can be made of round, half round, or square wire.

Keep the 14 gauge or heavier wire in coils. Wire of a lighter gauge may be wound on spools. If kinks occur in the lighter gauge wire they can be removed by holding the wire ends firmly and the length taut while drawing it over the edge of a wooden bench, or block of wood.

THE JIG

Many of the wire units, coils, and twists shown in this book were made on jigs. The word “jig” is a mechanics’ term given to a device which is used to guide a tool or a material. A jig makes the forming of an article easier during construction and makes the finished pieces mechanically more perfect. When a design re¬quires duplication of parts, a jig is often used. The one shown here was made on a block of wood with nails spaced and ham¬mered into the wood, the nail heads sawed off, and the ends made smooth so the wire units may be formed and removed easily.

Wire unit made on a jig and some of the ways it can be used

Ends turned under to make slides for belts

Drops for necklaces

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Following are the basic processes for all jewelry making.

Cleaning and filing keep the metal in condition for sawing and soldering which are construction processes, and for wire working which is a decorative process. Polishing and lacquering are finishing processes which bring out the technique of construction, and if well done, enhance the beauty of the article.

Sawing

Sawing with a jeweler’s saw blade set in a jeweler’s saw frame is used for metals which are too heavy in gauge or too intricate in pattern to be cut with shears. This type of saw can be used for straight, curved or angular lines which often form the outline and shape of the design. The saw blade comes in several different sizes. The coarsest used in this book is # I and the finest #0.

The thickness of the metal must be greater than the distance between the teeth of the blade to prevent the metal from becoming wedged between the teeth, and the saws from bending and breaking.   For example, saw 18 gauge metal with a # 1 saw blade.

Transferring the pattern to the metal

Transfer the traced pattern with carbon paper and a hard pencil.  Scratch the traced design into the metal.  Wipe the metal with a damp cloth to remove the carbon lines. 

Setting the blade in the frame

The worker should be directly in front of the V in the bench pin with the shoulder about 3 inches above the bench top.  With the frame in a horizontal position, place the upper arm of the frame in the V of the bench pin. Hold and press the handle against the body and clamp one end of the blade in the lower jaw. Press the frame, clamp the loose end in the upper jaw. Release the pressure. The blade must be taut.

Sawing the pattern

The right arm holding the saw frame vertically should be directly in front of the bench pin. Use the full length of the blade when sawing straight or curved lines.   For angles use the center of the blade with short strokes in one place to make a space in which to turn the blade.

Place the blade in the lower jaw, teeth pointing down toward the handle and away from the frame. Press the arms of the frame toward each other while inserting the blade in the upper jaw.

Saw with a vertical stroke, the blade always perpendicular to the metal.
 
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Filing is used to smooth rough edges, to level irregular surfaces and remove excess solder. The files most commonly used for jewelry work are needle files which come in a variety of shapes designed for various contours and angles. Large files from four to six inches in length come with a tang to be fitted into a wooden handle.

These files are used for larger areas or when a greater amount of metal has to be filed away. They can also be used for finishing an edge as they come in both coarse and smooth cut. It is good to have an assortment. Only a few are shown.

Clean the metal with pumice powder.

Place the metal on a steel surface plate.

Tap with a mallet to straighten.

Rub the file lightly with chalk; this helps to keep the teeth from becoming filled with metal filings. Hold the metal firmly. Put the pressure on the forward stroke, remove the pressure on the back stroke to keep the cutting edge of the teeth from becoming dull.

Clean the file at intervals. Remove the burr on the filed edge with a scraper or coarse emery cloth.

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Essential jewelry making tools for the beginner include those shown here. A variety of articles can be made with a small set of good tools; in fact, some of the pieces here are made with only two or three of the jewelry making tools listed. All jewelery making tools should be kept clean and protected from pressure that may bend or dull them and from moisture which will cause corrosion or rust. A good workman takes care of his tools.

CARE OF JEWELRY MAKING TOOLS

Keep the working surface of the steel hammer and steel surface plate free of scratches and dents by using coarse and fine abrasives depending upon the depth of the dent or scratch.

The steel burnisher must be kept well polished and wrapped in chamois skin when not in use. The file and handle come separately. Only the small files, such as the needle files, have a handle as part of the file.

The teeth of the files will become dull if allowed to rub against each other, or against other steel tools. Clean the files with a file brush, and rub the smaller files with a coarse cloth. Files and all jewelry making tools should be put away clean.

Gauges are jewelry making tools to measure the thickness of the metal sheet and the diameter of the wire. Insert the metal sheet or wire in the slot nearest to the thickness of the metal or diameter of the wire and read the gauge number. The gauge numbers referred to in this book are measured by the Brown and Sharpe Gauge. Visit our other posts for more information on jewelry making tools.

Ball pein hammer, for general use, the ball end used as a punch to raise the metal.

 

 

Metal cutting shears, for cutting light weight metal.

 

Jeweler’s saw frame, to hold saw blades which come in various sizes in packages of one dozen.

 

 

 

 

 

Hand vise, to hold small work while filing, etc

 

End and side cutting nippers, used to cut wire.

 

Round and square nose pliers, used to bend and form wire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finishing and polishing tools Hand buffs, felt and chamois on wood handles, to buff and polish metal.  Steel burnisher, used to smooth and finish metal.

 

Tweezers, used to handle stones and small objects. Scriber, used to mark an inscribed line on metal. Center punch, used to make depressions in the metal. Dividers, used to inscribe circles and divide lines.

 

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Several inexpensive metals, both in sheet and wire form, can be used to make interesting jewelry. For the beginner, copper and brass are the most recommended metal for jewelry making because of their low cost, but even advanced jewelers who work almost exclusively in sterling silver frequently use copper and brass for variety and color.

As far as construction is concerned, all the metals named can be used interchangeably for the jewelry included here.  When the beginning craftsman becomes more skillful he/she may want to work more often in sterling silver which, although it costs a little more, is a fine adaptable metal for jewelry making.

The different metals vary in hardness. Annealing is a heating process which is given to the metal to make it soft and pliable.  Most of the metals used for the jewelry projects here may be purchased annealed.  If the metal has to be annealed, lay it on a screen and hot plate until the heat turns it a glowing red, then set it aside to cool or plunge it into water for quick cooling.  Use only annealed sheet and wire for these jewelry making projects.

Metal for Jewelry Making

COPPER is used in its pure metallic state. Its reddish-brown color gives it a warm outdoor quality. Cold rolled and annealed sheet is smooth and easy to work. It can be polished and lacquered for a permanent finish.

BRASS is an alloy of copper and zinc, harder than copper. It is gold in color. It takes a high polish and is lacquered to preserve the luster.

STERLING SILVER is an alloy of pure silver and a small percentage of another metal, usually copper, to harden it. It is a more precious metal for jewelry making than copper or brass, it is easy to work and can be finished in several different ways; polished for a soft luster, given a high polish, oxidized for depth of color and then polished for highlights.

IRON is taken from iron ore and, when treated, is both tough and flexible and can be pulled into wire. The black iron binding wire referred to in these projects is used not only to hold pieces together for soldering, but also for a chain of iron units held together with silver links. If lacquered, the iron will not rust and its dark color and dull texture contrast well with the other metals used for jewelry making.

TIN has the whiteness of silver and is used in many important alloys, among them being solder. We employ tin only for solder, in pure state or alloyed with lead.

Of these silver is probably the most commonly used metal for jewelry making.

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