GROBET MAGNIFIER DOUBLE LENS SPECTACLE LOUPE 2 and 3 1 2 WORKING DISTANCE 3X 5X

Posted on December 10th, 2008 by admin in Make Jewelry | Comments Off



GROBET MAGNIFIER DOUBLE LENS SPECTACLE LOUPE 2 and 3 1 2 WORKING DISTANCE 3X 5X




Positive clamp slips on and off without removing glasses. Fits all wire and plastic eyeglass frames. The two lenses can be used singly or in combination.

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A loupe (pronounced /’lu?p/ loop) is a simple, small, hand-held magnification device used to see small details more closely. Unlike a magnifying glass, a loupe does not have an attached handle, and its focusing lens(es) are contained in an opaque cylinder or cone. Loupes are also called hand lenses.

Loupes are used in a number of industries, notably the jewelry trade, watchmaking, photography, printing, dentistry, education and ophthalmology. Loupes are also used in academia and life sciences, such as geology and biology. Amateur naturalists may also find a hand lens or a loupe a useful tool when looking at or identifying species.

Jewelers

Jewelers typically use a monocular, handheld loupe in order to magnify gemstones and other jewelry that they wish to inspect. A 10x magnification is good to use for inspecting jewelry and hallmarks and is the Gemological Institute of America’s standard for grading diamond clarity. The stone will sometimes be inspected at higher magnifications, although inclusions and blemishes must be visible at 10x to affect the grade.

Watchmaking

Loupes are employed to assist watchmakers in assembling mechanical watches. Many aspects require the use of the loupe, in particular the assembly of the watch mechanism itself, the assembly and details of the watch dial, as well as the formation of the watch strap and installation of precious stones onto the watch face.

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CRATEX ABRASIVE ROUND ROD 6X3 8 FINE

Posted on December 10th, 2008 by admin in Make Jewelry | Comments Off



CRATEX ABRASIVE ROUND ROD 6X3 8 FINE




Grit Textures: Each Cratex size and shape is made in four standard grit textures or compositions which differ in accordance with the mesh size of the abrasive grain used. Coarse (Green) Medium (Dark Brown) Fine (Reddish Brown) and Extra Fine (Grey Green). Cratex Blocks and Sticks are excellent hand tools for cleaning and polishing metal surfaces, for breaking edges, smoothing away high spots, removing rust, heat marks, tarnish and stains. Designed for either manual or mechanical operation, they can be mounted in tool holding fixtures, chucks, or cradles. Use them for polishing shafts…damaskeening…cleaning and dressing diamond wheels…polishing rotating cylindrical parts, cleaning calibrations and reference points, and for removing feather edges and touching up cutting tools, dies, chisels and other sharp edged tools.

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Additional Abrasives

DOUBLE BELT ROUND ROD SANDING MACHINE

Description:

* Double belt sander,capacity from 5 to 80 mm in diameter.
* A course grit belt on first process and a finer grit belt on second process will produce a superior finish with one pass through the machine.
* Less handing with high efficiency than achieved with CF-80B single belt round rod sanding machine.
* Fatest feed speed the range from 6 to 20 meters per minute.
* Change abrasive belt in seconds.

Features:

Type CF-80B2
Range of work diameter

5 to 80mm
Range of work length
200mm~unlimited
Drive motor
5HP
Vaccum suction motor
1/2HP
Sand belt size
125×1860mm(5″x73″)
Belt speed
18m/sec
Feed speed
6-20 m/min
Machine size ( LxWxH )
950×650x1340mm
Packing size ( LxWxH )
1100×790x1560mm
Net weight
390kg
Gross weight
470kg

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PLIER FLAT NOSE ECONOMY

Posted on December 9th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off



PLIER FLAT NOSE ECONOMY




Good quality lap joint carbon steel work pliers that have smooth jaws. Has polished heads to prevent marking on soft metals and cushion grip handles. Overall length is 4-1/2″.

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Pliers are a hand tool used to hold objects firmly, for cutting, bending, or physical compression. Generally, pliers consist of a pair of metal first-class levers joined at a fulcrum positioned closer to one end of the levers, creating short jaws on one side of the fulcrum, and longer handles on the other side. This arrangement creates a mechanical advantage, allowing the force of the hand’s grip to be amplified and focused on an object with precision. The jaws can also be used to manipulate objects too small or unwieldy to be manipulated with the fingers.

As pliers in the general sense are an ancient and simple invention, no single point in history, or single inventor, can be credited. Early metal working processes from several millennia BCE would have required plier-like devices to handle hot materials in the process of smithing or casting. Development from wooden to bronze pliers would have probably happened sometime prior to 3000 BCE.[1] Among the oldest illustrations of pliers are those showing the Greek god Hephaestus in his forge. Today, pliers intended principally to be used for safely handling hot objects are usually called tongs. The number of different designs of pliers grew with the invention of the different objects which they were used to handle: horseshoes, fasteners, wire, pipes, electrical and electronic components.

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PLASTIC RULER WHITE 6 IN and MM

Posted on December 9th, 2008 by admin in Make Jewelry | Comments Off



PLASTIC RULER WHITE 6 IN and MM




Graduated in millimeters across the top and 1/16″ increments across the lower half. 6 inch length, 1/2″ wide

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A ruler, sometimes called a rule or line gauge, is an instrument used in geometry, technical drawing, printing and engineering/building to measure distances and/or to rule straight lines. Strictly speaking, the ruler is essentially a straightedge used to rule lines[citation needed], but typically the ruler also contains calibrated lines to measure distances.

Rulers have long been made of wood in a wide range of sizes. Plastics have been used since they were invented; they can be molded with length markings instead of being scribed. Metal is used for more durable rulers for use in the workshop; sometimes a metal edge is embedded into a wooden desk ruler to preserve the edge when used for straight-line cutting. 12 inches or 30 cm in length is useful for a ruler to be kept on a desk to help in drawing. Shorter rulers are convenient for keeping in a pocket. Longer rulers, e.g., 18 inches (45 cm) are necessary in some cases. Rigid wooden or plastic yardsticks, 1 yard long and meter sticks, 1 meter long, are also used.

Desk rulers are used for three main purposes: to measure, to aid in drawing straight lines and as a straight guide for cutting and scoring with a blade. Practical rulers have distance markings along their edges.

A type of ruler used in the printing industry is called a line gauge. These may be made from a variety of materials, typically metal or clear plastic. Units of measurement on a basic line gauge usually include inches, agate, picas, and points. More detailed line gauges may contain sample widths of lines, samples of common type in several point sizes, etc.

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3M FEATHER DISC ADHESIVE TYPE II

Posted on December 9th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

3M FEATHER DISC ADHESIVE TYPE II




Pressure-sensitive adhesive holds firmly and peels away easily for quick interchange of discs. Contains hexane and will incur hazardous charges if shipping by air. 5 oz. tube.

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A transparent, fast-drying adhesive for adhering paper- or cloth-backed abrasive discs to cloth, sponge rubber, metal, plastic sponge or sisal back-up plates. 3M feathering disc adhesives (type II) are especially formulated to allow multiple disc applications without adhesive buildup or paper delamination.

Specially formulated to allow multiple disc applications without adhesive buildup or paper delamination. Discs remove easily and cleanly.

Product Description

* A single component repositionable adhesive gel
* Specially formulated to allow multiple disc applications without adhesive buildup or paper delamination. Discs remove easily and cleanly.

HANDLING
Do not eat, drink or smoke when using this product. Wash exposed areas thoroughly with soap and water. Keep away from heat, sparks, open flame, pilot lights and other sources of ignition. Ground containers securely when transferring contents. Wear low static or properly grounded shoes. Avoid breathing of vapors created during cure cycle. Avoid static discharge. Avoid eye contact with vapors, mists, or spray. Keep out of the reach of children. Do not breathe vapors. Avoid contact with oxidizing agents. Avoid skin contact.

STORAGE
Store away from acids. Store away from heat. Store out of direct sunlight. Keep container in well-ventilated area. Keep container tightly closed. Store away from oxidizing agents.

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UNIVERSAL DIAMOND GAUGE

Posted on December 8th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

UNIVERSAL DIAMOND GAUGE




Contains 7 blades for measuring the most popular diamond shapes: round, baguette, square, pear and marquise stones. Stainless steel, high quality finished blades fold together within protective stainless steel case.

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Diamond Carat Weight and Size
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Dan_Greenberg]Dan Greenberg

The most important factors diamond shoppers should consider are based on the ‘Four Cs’. Those are the cut, color, clarity, and the carat weight. Among them, the diamond carat weight is the easiest one to understand. Read on to find out about the basic information and even greater tips about the diamond carat weight.

Carat Weight History

The term ‘Carat’ origins are from the ancient Greek word ‘keration’ that means ‘fruit of the carob’. Diamond carat weight is measured in carats since carob fruit was known to be uniform in weight and size. The carat (CT) became the official unit of weight for diamonds in 1907 at the fourth General Conference on Weights and Measures. One carat equals 200 milligrams (0.2 grams).

When shopping for a diamond, these next related issues should be considered with regards to carat weight:

· Size · Shape · Cut quality · Pricing · Proportions of the diamond to the wearer · Budget

Size

Even if diamonds have an identical shape and weight, they don’t necessarily have the same size. Diamond carat size is determined by how it is cut (dimensions) and its depth. A diamond that has less depth has a larger diameter (size) and vice versa. Doubling diamond carat weight does not double size since the diamond is larger in both diameter and depth.

Shape

Each shape has a unique look. Diamonds with the same weight but are cut to different shapes will have different sizes (diameter and depth), so some shapes appear to be “larger” than others. Preference of shape is individual. Most diamonds are cut to “Round” shape, but many shoppers prefer other shapes.

Cut Quality

Cut quality greatly influences appearance. A well cut diamond looks like a “Fireball” and seems larger because weight and dimensional size are optimal and correlate. The worth of a well cut diamond is also higher because of the amazing difference with other ordinary looking diamonds.

Pricing

The Rapaport Diamond List sets the diamond prices. Weight has the largest impact over price and is followed by clarity, color, and cut quality. Larger diamonds are rarer and cost more than smaller ones when clarity, color and cut are equal. Doubling weight quadruples total cost (not price per carat). Sometimes larger diamonds are cut to retain a higher weight and price; this will compromise the cut quality and appearance.

Round and fancy shapes are priced separately. Round diamonds cost more because demand is higher – 65% of the market. Cutting into a round shape causes loss of more material in comparison to any other shape.

Diamond Carat weight main classes are:

· 0.50-0.69CT · 0.70-0.89CT · 0.90-0.99CT · 1.00-1.49CT · 1.50-1.99CT · 2.00-2.99CT · 3.00-3.99CT · 4.00-4.99CT · 5.00-9.99CT · 10.00 CT and up

Price differs by percentage between weight classes, so the best value diamonds are close to the upper limit of the weight class below your target. For example, a 0.94 Carat diamond will look very similar to 1.00 Carat diamond but will cost between 8 – 20% less (when color, clarity and cut are the same).

Proportion

Bigger diamonds aren’t necessarily better. Maintaining the right proportion between diamond and wearer is important.

Budget

Larger diamonds are more expensive so you have to consider this when buying one. But rest in the fact that you can find a great looking diamond within your budget range.

Main Diamond Carat Weight Tips:
“Total weight” is different from carat weight since it represents the total weight of diamonds in a piece of jewelry. For example, a pendant with 3 set diamonds will have a total weight of 1.23 and that the weight of all three diamonds is 1.23 Carats.
When size is important, one should compromise on clarity or color but not the cut quality – since the cut quality determines the diamond looks and sparkle.

Choosing one size category smaller can save you money.

For more valuable information about diamond weight and size and general Diamonds information check my website.

After long years in the diamond business I want to share my knowledge. My main aim is to assist you buying better diamond smarter and cheaper.

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3M SANDING SPONGES FINE BOX OF 20

Posted on December 8th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

3M SANDING SPONGES FINE BOX OF 20




Convenient size; these closed-cell foam rubber sanding pads are great for working with platinum, and they are so flexible they conform to almost any contour or surface. They can be folded or trimmed to fit into small spaces and can be used wet or dry. Micron-graded aluminum oxide abrasives make them safe for a variety of applications.

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Polishing Handmade Silver Jewelry – Using Sandpaper To Polish Your Jewelry
By Ash Brooks

Once you have made your silver item there are many ways to polish your piece depending on the type of finish you want to achieve. But generally, the best way to achieve a long-lasting, professional look is to polish your piece using sandpaper which you can easily buy from your local hardware store.

You will need to purchase different grades of sandpaper buying one sheet in each grade. The lower the grade number, the rougher the sandpaper is with the higher grade numbers over 1000 being very smooth.

Start with a lower grade of sandpaper and move your way up through the grades.

A guide for the grades to use would be:

1. 240 [start]
2. 360
3. 400
4. 600
5. 1200 [Finish]

Before starting to polish your silver piece, put on a pair of cheap cotton gloves to prevent body oils contaminating the surfaces you will be polishing.

Starting off with the 240 grade sandpaper will help to get the surface even and eliminate scratches. It is really important that you polish the piece of silver with the sandpaper in one direction to make the surface tidy and smooth.

Each time you change your sandpaper to the next grade you need to change the direction that you are polishing in. This helps get rid of scratch marks more effectively and will give you a much better finish.

So if, for example, you are polishing a pendant, start polishing from left to right with the 240 grade sandpaper. Then polish from top to bottom with the 360 grade etc. Don’t forget to do the back and sides of your piece as well to finish the item professionally.

Just using a piece of sandpaper on its own can be quite awkward and it can be difficult to evenly rub the piece of silver over the whole surface. But here is a great tip you can follow to get around this problem.

Find a straight piece of wood that is about 30cm long by 4cm wide and 1cm thick. Place a sheet of sandpaper face down on a flat surface with the long edge of your stick flush with the edge of your sandpaper. Score the back of the sandpaper along the other edge of the stick. Follow this process to wrap the sandpaper around the stick about 4 times.

Without unwrapping the sandpaper, tape the ends of the sandpaper with something like parcel tape making sure the tape has a surface you can write on. Make sure you do not tape onto the stick. Remove the stick and then repeat for the other grades of sandpaper you have bought. Write the grade of the sandpaper on the tape at each end and do this with all of your grades.

When you are finished you will now have made sanding sleeves that can easily be slipped on and off of your stick as you move through the grades. As the sandpaper becomes worn, simply peel back and tear off that surface leaving the end tapes intact which will expose the fresh layer of sandpaper underneath.

You can also follow a similar technique with a flat lollipop stick to make a smaller version to polish the more difficult areas of your silver and get a fantastic finish.

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FELT RING BUFF 9 16 3 4 DIAMETER X 3 LENGTH REGULAR

Posted on December 8th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

FELT RING BUFF 9 16 3 4 DIAMETER X 3 LENGTH REGULAR




Made of the highest grade wool felt permanently mounted to tapered wood mandrel and drilled for use on tapered spindle. Smallest size is suitable for children’s rings.

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Felt has earned and deserved a reputation for centuries for outperforming all other polishing materials. Felt provides the perfect “home” for polishing compounds and slurries of all types. Here are the secrets of felt’s success:

* Felt’s porosity accepts fine abrasive particles and continually presents an even, sharp, cutting action.
* The resiliency of felt helps to conform the polishing surface to the part.
* As felt wears, it always presents an identical medium for polishing compounds.
* The ability to machine felt to close tolerances makes it possible to offer the exact felt profile required to match the profile of the part.

Jewelers use these Felt Ring Buffs. Extra quality felt mounted on wood arbors for polishing the insides of rings and for other internal polishing operations. Spindle end is manufactured of seasoned hardwood accurately turned to assure concentric operation. Metal rings around hole prevent splitting.

Features
This high-quality felt inside ring buff is mounted on a reinforced wood mandrel. Use with a tapered spindle. All professional Jewelers use these inside ring buffs to remove scratches and polish jewelry to a high lustre.

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BEADERS TOOL KIT

Posted on December 8th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

BEADERS TOOL KIT




Top-of-the-Line And mighty fine-for mighty fine work, as in beading, fly-tying, that sort of thing. Everything you’ll need for small crafts in a heavy-duty, zippered black canvas pouch: (4) pair of spring-loaded needle-nose pliers with jaws sized at 3/16″, 3/32″, 1/16″ and 1/32″ wide; a pair of end nippers; both standard and fine-point tweezers; a 3-1/2″/80mm brass caliper; a very sharp probe; and a pair of thread scissors. Beads and flies not included.

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

Review #1
I would not recommend this tool set . I purchased it for the making of jewelry and have only had it 2 weeks and the “nose on the medium Needle nose plier broke in half and flew across the room. Very little pressure was used when this product broke and is now useless. i recommend buying the individual tools from Craftsman which are guaranteed !

Review #2
No problem with the item ordered….the company was prompt in shipping, Very pleased with the choice I made both of the item and the company, RBB

Review #3
A bargin price for this tool set. The quality is excellent for each piece. The carrying case is a great bonus.

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NORTON EMERY PAPER 9X13 3 4 GRIT 0

Posted on December 7th, 2008 by admin in Tools | Comments Off

NORTON EMERY PAPER 9X13 3 4 GRIT 0




In sheet size 9" x 13 3/4" (22 x 34 cm). Grit 4/0 is the finest and 3 is the coarsest. 400 mesh.

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Sandpaper or glasspaper[1] is a heavy paper with abrasive material bonded to its surface.

Sandpaper is part of the "coated abrasives" family of abrasive products. It is used to remove small amounts of material from surfaces, either to make them smoother (painting and wood finishing), to remove a layer of material (e.g. old paint), or sometimes to make the surface rougher (e.g. as a preparation to gluing).

There are many varieties of sandpaper, with variations in the paper or backing, the material used for the grit, grit size, and the bond.

Backing

In addition to paper, backing for sandpaper includes cloth (cotton, polyester, rayon), PET film, and "fibre", or rubber. Cloth backing is used for sandpaper discs and belts, while mylar is used as backing for extremely fine grits. Fibre or vulcanized fibre is a strong backing material consisting of many layers of polymer impregnated paper. The weight of the backing is usually designated by a letter. For paper backings, the weight ratings range from "A" to "F," with A designating the lightest and F the heaviest. Letter nomenclature follows a different system for cloth backings, with the weight of the backing rated J, X, Y , T, and M, from lightest to heaviest.

A flexible backing allows sandpaper to follow irregular contours of a workpiece; relatively inflexible backing is optimal for regular rounded or flat surfaces. Sandpaper backings may be glued to the paper or form a separate support structure for moving sandpaper, such as used in sanding belts and discs. Stronger paper or backing increases the ease of sanding wood, so good quality sand paper is much better than low quality sandpaper. The harder the backing material, the faster the sanding, the faster the wear of the paper and the rougher the sanded surface.

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