LINDSTROM PLIER CUTTER DIAGONAL MICRO BEVEL 8140

The most advanced diagonal cutting nippers available, unsurpassed in cutting capacity. Manufactured with screw-type precision lap joint for optimum strength, exact movement and maximum accessibility. Dual spring-loaded handles and oval jaw design. Made in Sweden. Overall length 4-5/16″. Length of jaws 3/8″

You can use the diagonal cutting nippers in many ways in your jewelry making processes.  It has a large cutting capacity so you can cut many sizes of many different materials.  These nippers were manufactured using the screw style lap joint.  This gives these nippers extra strength and very precise motion even when you are cutting at a maximum capacity.  The handles of these nippers are dual spring loaded and the jaw design is an oval design.  Again, these will be a great help in any of your jewelry making uses.  These nippers are made in Sweden,  The overall length of the nippers is 4 and 5/16 inches.  The length of the nipper jaws are 3/8 of an inch.  These are the type of nippers you will definitely want to add to your jewelry making tool kit.

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BENCH PLIER RACK WITH DRAWER

Has slots for seven pliers, shelf for miscellaneous small tools and a handy storage drawer. Varnished natural finish. Made of particle board. Measures 6″ x 5″ x 7 1/2″ (152 x 127 x 191 mm).

Round section
The less said about these the better. They are usually made from brass and are compressed with a point to cup type crimp tool. They don’t make a strong join but are just about adequate for some light tackle applications. If you’re desperate and can’t tie a knot use these.

Oval section
This style is in almost universal use on commercial longline vessels, and they catch some pretty big fish using them. They are available in various brass and copper alloys and in aluminium and you will need a cup to cup type crimp tool to compress them. These are an excellent choice for serious anglers. When appropriately sized for the leader in use and compressed with the correct tool they create a very strong and reliable connection. Bear in mind though that in saltwater two dissimilar metals can set up a corrosive reaction and if aluminium sleeves are used to join steel cable they will corrode away in a remarkably short period of time, just like the sacrificial anodes used on sea going boats.

For this reason aluminium sleeves should only be used for joining monofilament, whilst brass or copper sleeves can be used for joining either monofilament or cable.

Double barrel
Double barrel sleeves are my favourite. They make a strong neat join and there is no danger of the cable or monofilament crossing over itself inside the sleeve.

They are also in common use on longline boats, but due to being very slightly more costly than oval sleeves they are less popular. Longliners use an awful lot of sleeves so every cent saved is important, but that’s not really such an issue for charter captains or private anglers who use far fewer.

Like oval sleeves, double barrel sleeves are available in both brass or copper and in aluminium. They should also only be compressed with a cup to cup style crimping tool.

The same comments regarding corrosion apply as for oval sleeves. It’s important so I’ll say it again. Use aluminium sleeves for monofilament only, use brass or copper sleeves for either monofilament or steel cable.

Double barrel sleeves are available in both standard and heavy-duty models. The standard sleeves are only available in brass or copper, whilst the heavy-duty sleeves are available in brass, copper and aluminium. These heavy-duty sleeves are for use with heavier leaders and larger crimping tools and are often generically referred to as ‘Nicopress’ sleeves.

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ARKANSAS SLIP SQUARE 2 1 2 X 1 8

Hard. Natural, close-density slips with qualities that make them unequalled for sharpening tools such as gravers, knives, etc.

Mala beads, or ojuzu, are Buddhist prayer beads. Traditionally, a string of Mala beads has 108 beads and is wrapped around the left wrist. They are often used as a focus for meditation to many Buddhist traditions. In some traditions, the Mala is used to keep track of mantras as they are chanted. This article will explain how to make mala beads.

Read more: How to Make Mala Beads | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4841499_make-mala-beads.html#ixzz1C0B38fF5

Choose your materials, and lay them out before starting. Beads should be made from a natural material, not plastic or acrylic. Stone beads may be used, but keep in mind the weight of the finished Mala when choosing stone beads. Your large bead, also known as a Guru or Buddha bead, will need to be wood so you can drill a third hole in it.
Choose a color of embroidery floss that will work with your beads and the nylon twine you use for stringing. Black is a popular choice.

Start by creating the Buddha bead. To make this bead, using the locking pliers or clamp and secure the bead with the hole channel parallel to the workbench. Wearing safety goggles and gloves, hold the clamp steady. Drill a hole into the bead with the Dremel tool until it enters the existing hole channel. Be careful not to drill all the way through the bead. Set the bead aside for now.

String the nylon twine on the beading needle. String the first 10-mm bead and tie in place. Tie it on loosely as you will be untying it later. Continue stringing the remaining 107 beads onto the twine. Do not allow the twine to twist up as this will cause the Mala to tangle later.

Carefully thread the twine through one of the side holes in the Buddha bead and out the center hole you just drilled. Remove the needle. Untie the knot on the other end of the prayer beads. Attach the needle to the untied end and thread it through the other side of the Buddha bead then through the center hole. Finally, thread both ends through the 8-mm bead. Tie in a square knot.

Cut a 2-foot length from the embroidery floss. Take the 4-inch square of cardboard, and wrap the embroidery floss around it. Try and keep the floss smooth and neat as you wrap. Snip the looped floss at the bottom of the cardboard square, making a small stack floss that is 8 inches in length. Using the ends of the twine that emerges from the last bead, tie another square knot around the center of the bundle of embroidery floss.

Fold the floss back over the knot, hiding it in the center. To complete the tassel, take the remaining 2 feet of floss and wind it 1/2 to 1 inch down from the top of the tassel several times. Tie a knot, and push it under the wound floss. Trim loose ends from the twine and floss. Smooth the tassel and make sure the ends are even.

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WOOD FILE HANDLE FOR NEEDLE FILES

Precision chuck in smooth wooden handle holds 5-1/2″ (14 cm) and 6-1/4″ (16 cm) needle files securely.

Needle files are usually sold in sets of 6 or 12 (or more) different shapes, packaged in a soft pouch, both for ease of handling and protection of the files’ teeth. They are small files that are used in applications where the surface finish takes priority over metal removal rates but they are most suited for smaller work pieces.

They are often used as pictured, however, like all files, they are safest when used with a handle. The handle is often designed around the collet principle which allows the files and handle to be interchanged quickly.

Files have forward-facing cutting teeth, and cuts most effectively when pushed over the workpiece. Draw filing involves laying the file sideways on the work, and carefully pushing or pulling it across the work. This catches the teeth of the file sideways instead of head on, and a very fine shaving action is produced. There are also varying strokes that produce a combination of the straight ahead stroke and the drawfiling stroke, and very fine work can be attained in this fashion. Using a combination of strokes, and progressively finer files, a skilled operator can attain a surface that is perfectly flat and near mirror finish.

Pinning refers to the clogging of the file teeth with pins, which are material shavings. These pins cause the file to lose its cutting ability and can scratch the workpiece. A file card, which is a brush with metal bristles, is used to clean the file.

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Jewelers Lighted Magnifying Visor 4 Diopter Levels Twin LED Lights

An essential tool when working with electronic micro-parts, computer repair, soldering, precision machining. Great for close-in examination of coins, stamps or other collectibles, knitting and arts & crafts projects. These are great for all of your jewelry making needs. Use combination of stationary, flip-up and monocle lenses for four levels of magnification from 1.8X to 4.8X. One-year warranty and Satisfaction Guarantee from Jack’s Tool Shed.

(A dioptre, or diopter, is a unit of measurement of the optical power of a lens or curved mirror, which is equal to the reciprocal of the focal length measured in metres (that is, 1/metres). It is thus a unit of reciprocal length. For example, a 3-dioptre lens brings parallel rays of light to focus at 1/3 metre. The same unit is also sometimes used for other reciprocals of distance, particularly radii of curvature and the vergence of optical beams. The term was proposed by French ophthalmologist Felix Monoyer in 1872.

One benefit of quantifying a lens in terms of its optical power rather than its focal length is that when relatively thin lenses are placed close together their powers approximately add. Thus a thin 2-dioptre lens placed close to a thin 0.5-dioptre lens yields almost the same focal length as a 2.5-dioptre lens would have.)

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ACCURATE DIAMOND GAUGE

Folds to the size of a half-dollar. Measures round and baguette stones from 1/100 to 2 carats. Made of aluminum for long, durable service.

On a diamond grading report, you will see two different measurements of the diamond’s depth-the actual depth in millimeters (under “measurements” at the top of the report) and the depth percentage, which expresses how deep the diamond is in comparison to how wide it is. This depth percentage of a diamond is important to its brilliance and value, but it only tells part of the story. Where that depth lies is equally important to the diamond’s beauty; specifically, the pavilion should be just deep enough to allow light to bounce around inside the diamond and be reflecting out to the eye at the proper angle. Keep in mind, also, that a depth percentage that might be excessive for one diamond cut might be necessary for another type of cut. For example, a 75% or 78% depth in a princess cut diamond would be typical and quite attractive. However, a depth of even 65% would be unnecessary and even detrimental to a round diamond’s beauty.

A comparison of how much longer a diamond is than it is wide. It is used to analyze the outline of fancy shapes only; it is never applied to round diamonds. There’s really no such thing as an ‘ideal’ ratio; it’s simply a matter of personal aesthetic preferences. For example, while many people are told that a 2 to 1 ratio is best for a marquise, most people actually tend to prefer a ratio of around 1.80 to 1 when they actually look at marquises. And though the standard accepted range for the length-to- width ratio of a marquise generally falls between 1.70 to 1 and 2.05 to 1, there are customers who insist on having ‘fatter’ marquises of about 1.60 to 1 and other customers who want longer, thinner marquises of 2.25 to 1.

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SAWFRAME SWISS 2 3 4 DEEP ADJUSTABLE STYLE

Revolutionary design in three lightweight, perfectly balanced sawframes. Ergonomic handles reduce fatigue and provide greater dexterity. Patented blade-lock design eases blade insertion, maintains perfect alignment and eliminates wobble which reduces blade loss during use. * Precision-made at our Swiss factory of the highest quality spring steel with non-glare finish. Set screws can be used on either the left or right side of the frame according to your preference. 2-3/4″ (70 mm) deep. * Blade tightening screw must be opened wide enough to allow sawblades to be inserted all the way.

Tips for Choosing a Jewelry Saw or Piercing Saw:

Adjustable or Fixed frame? Will you only work with full sized frame blades (pegged or unpegged) or do you prefer a saw (always unpegged) which can accept any length of saw blades, including longer bits from blades you have broken during work? Adjustable saws can be adjusted to a shorter frame to hold broken bits of blade.

Hand Grip Some newer models have soft, easily gripped handles. As blade control is related to grip, you may want a larger, softer handle if you suffer from arthritis or have a weak grip.

What Size Is Your Material? Jewellers saws are held straight up and down to saw. The size of material you can cut, will be determined by the throat depth of your saw. Smaller saws will only be able to cut into the center of a piece of wood which has a radius (measurement to the center) less than the depth of the saw frame’s throat. A saw with a three inch throat can only cut into the center of a piece of wood which is six inches across, or can cut completely across a piece of wood which is three inches across.

Method of Tensioning the Blade Non adjustable frames must be tensioned by pushing the head of the saw frame into a piece of scrap wood or the edge of a work surface, while you press down on the handle to temporarily narrow the gap for the blade. Adjustable frames can be tensioned after the blade is attached to the frame, by pressing down on the stop at the bottom of the adjustable frame. There is no particular advantage to either system, although the tensioning adjustment via the adjustable frame is sometimes easier to set more precisely.
(Source: About.com)

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TUNGSTEN SOLDER PICK WITH HANDLE

Wood handle with sharp pointed tip for placing, holding and positioning solder in just the right place. For platinum soldering with tungsten tip.

Used for positioning solder while soldering.  Tungsten tip is for platinum, as it can withstand the higher temperatures required for such work, and it won’t contaminate platinum like other solder picks will.

It does not appear to be generally known that it is not difficult to solder metals to tungsten; Angerer states that Neusilber (German silver) can be used, but with this exception the general opinion seems to be that welding is the only practical method. In fact, there are a number of metals that will run on tungsten, of which gold, palladium, zinc, and (I believe) nickel are the most important.

The ability to be able to Braze is an asset worth investing in.  Silver Solder is a Hard Solder Method and is used for Soldering Tungsten Carbide Tips to Tool Holders and Tungsten Carbide Tips on TCT Saw Blades etc.

Torch Heads are available in various forms from top of the range instant piezo-electric ignition down to a basic pencil flame torch, the one shown in the picture is a middle of the range swivel head torch.

Most Torches can be used with either Propane or MAPP Gas, I prefer the MAPP Gas as this gives a higher heat [150/200°C Higher] and therefore increases your Brazing Capabilities.

MAPP Gas although slightly more expensive it is well worth the extra cost.

Silver Solder is available in numerous grades I use a general purpose Cadmium Free version with a high Silver content of 35% [typically AG35] which has melting temperature of 680/700°C.

The only other requirement is a suitable Flux, in either Powder Form or Pr-Mixed although this has a limited shelf life, you can also purchase pre-fluxed Silver Solder which can be more convenient.

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PRO CUT LUBRICANT

Keep your drills working smoother and longer, while reducing heat buildup and friction to speed the cut. Easy and convenient to use. Leave it on the bench and just dip the drill in the lubricant at regular intervals while working. Comes in handy push-up 2 oz. (56.7 g) container.

Pro Cut Lubricant is just the thing that jewelers and watchmakers need around their workbench. This great lubricant can be used on burs, drills, saw blades, gravers, and most of your other cutting and abrading tools. It will keep them working smoother and longer. The lubricant works by reducing head build up and friction to speed the cut. It comes in an easy and convenient push up tube, so you can leave it right on your bench and just dip or run the tool through the lubricant every so often while working to keep it performing at its best.

Keep your drills working smoother and longer, while reducing heat buildup and friction to speed the cut. Easy and convenient to use. Leave it on the bench and just dip the drill in the lubricant at regular intervals while working.

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OPTICAID MAGNIFIER 6 INCH WORKING DISTANCE X 2 3 4 POWER

Clips on to most eyeglass frames to leave hands free. Optically designed plastic lenses enable you to see tiny details, without distortion, using both eyes. Lightweight, comfortable and adjustable. Comes with a carrying pouch.

The clip-on binocular magnifier is one of the most convenient and comfortable magnifiers to aid close-up work or hobbies. It allows patients to see tiny objects clearly with both eyes, while hands remain free. Swings out of line of vision when not in use. New clip-on design will fit most metal and plastic frames.

Another viewing option is the Magnifier Visor. The Magna Focuser with auxiliary lens offers significantly great detail when the aux lens (over the right eye) is used. It is a visor style magnifier that can be worn over glasses and features a padded adjustable headband. Excellent for detail work

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